Turley Publications photos by Jonathan Cook

Bob Richardson explains how his cows spend the day atop Coy Hill.

State puts the squeeze on raw milk dairies

By Jonathan Cook

Turley Publications Reporter

WARREN – Surviving as a dairy farmer in the Bay State got harder this year after the Mass Department of Agriculture (MDAR) abruptly put brakes on the niche market of raw milk.

While those dairies with raw milk licenses can still sell their product, the shared delivery services some customers provided for each other have been ordered to cease and desist by MDAR Commissioner Scott Soares.

Calling the collaborative effort to truck the raw milk, “buyers clubs,” Soares reasoned these efforts amount to unlicensed distribution, which is illegal.

According to Bob Richardson, a second generation dairy farmer on Coy Hill, Soares is unmoved by suggested solutions. Richardson said he told Soares over a lunch meeting that if the buyers clubs were distributors, then they could be licensed and inspected.

“They don’t want that,” Richardson said.

As a result, Richardson’s Rocky Acres Farm, which he operates with his wife, Marty Richardson and his son Brian, has lost almost thirty percent of their income.

“What kind of frosts me, is that for years, Massachusetts always encouraged farmers to deal directly with consumers. You know, buy local. Now they’re outlawing a group that buys direct.” Richardson said.

The suddenness of the decision has Richardson wondering. “This is our eighth year (selling raw milk), and it’s just grown and grown and grown.” Then, suddenly, for no apparent reason, the door slammed.

It’s not because the milk changed. A licensed raw milk dairy like Rocky Acres is inspected once every month. “I can show you my bacteria count,” Richardson said. “Eight years and we haven’t had a problem. It’s quite a situation. I just can’t figure it out.”

Richardson points to another benefit of the buyers clubs beyond his bottom line. “One person can pick up milk for quite a few people. Fewer trips equal less gas.”

Richardson estimates himself to be one of the larger raw milk producers in the state, but he can’t take credit for developing the market. The market came to him.

He said a group of like-minded consumers on the North Shore sent a representative to see him and he was quick to see the opportunity.

He said there is a strong movement among people who want to know what’s really in their food.

Milk from cows that eat grass is said to have natural antibiotics that protect the milk. Raw milk adherents also say unheated milk can be enjoyed by those who are lactose intolerant.

Richardson said, at first his “buyers club” took turns driving out to the farm, and now they own their own refrigerated truck.

For the Richardsons, the advantage of raw milk is easy to see. Consumers buy it directly for $6 per gallon, bottled. For the wholesale share of the business, which takes most of their milk, they get $12 per hundredweight, or about $2 per gallon. Robinson said the average cost of producing milk in this state is $15 per hundredweight. Numbers like that make raw milk a life raft for regional dairies that can produce high quality milk.

Last month Marty went to a hearing on the new rule and was among hundreds who urged MDAR to rethink. MDAR promised an answer in 30 days, which expired this week.

As a result, the Richardsons have been anxiously awaiting word from Boston. Meanwhile, Marty noted something interesting developed. The buyer’s club controversy has gained the attention of local consumers. As of late, the number of nearby residents seeking raw milk from Rocky Acres has increased.

The Robinsons hope that trend continues. Bob said buyers should call 413-436-5806 one day ahead, so the milk can be same-day fresh.

That can work for locals, but raw milk believers to the east have lost their access to a favored health product. That rankles Robinson, too. “They should give people a choice,” he said, which will give dairies a chance. Ultimately, “this is about helping small business survive.”